We Shall Not Cease From Exploration…

We Shall Not Cease From Exploration…

UNFINISHED POST

We shall not cease from exploration and the end of all our exploring will be to arrive where we began and to know the place for the first time.

Little Gidding T.S. Elliott

It may seem incongruous to entitle a page about Islamic and African culture with a quote originating from the heart of English literature. There are however substantial reasons for doing so which relate mainly to my own cultural orientation and state of mind.  I need to extricate myself a little from affiliation with Morocco.

I have now spent a long time in Morocco,  travelling down from the north and visiting interesting sites along the way.  My main focus has been visiting Sufi shrines and tombs often associated with zaouias as well as exploring the role of healing illness through music.  The two areas are however inter-connected; it is predominantly the Sufi brotherhoods through networks of zaouias which perform traditional healing music.  An important addition to this group is the Gnaoua who have no Sufi heritage.  Instead they bring ritual and belief from middle Africa and transpose their animist culture into the melange which is multi-ethnic Islamic Morocco.  Essentially they perform the same healing role as the Sufi brotherhoods.

The underlying assumption shared across these groups is that invisible spirits range widely throughout society,  mostly replicating the lifestyle of humans in their own dimension.  Some spirits are considered capricious and hostile and are believed to decide to inhabit or occupy humans which can cause illness,  or ‘malady’.  The presence of these spirits are given validity by references regarding their creation in the Qu’ran;  they are formed from ‘smokeless fire’ whereas humans are formed from ‘clay’. The Qu’ran provides further details about hierarchies of spirits which suggest differentials in terms of associated strengths and powers.  Although the more powerful have individual names and significant personality traits, these spirits are collectively called Djinns ( masculine ) and Djnniyya  ( female ); and their presence and capability of possession is found right across the Islamic world.

A further assumption shared across these groups is that music,  ritual,  prayer and animal sacrifice can propitiate the djinn and,  inter alia, bring remedy and peace to the afflicted. These are traditional methods of treating illness within a Moroccan society where educaton, money or access to conventional medicine has largely been historically minimised.  With modernity now in Morocco,  things should have changed.  Have they?

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Haddarates Souiriyattes

Haddarates Souiriyattes

It is with enormous pleasure that I am able to document a group of women playing music in Essaouira.  The Haddarates Souiriyattes practice regularly at La Recontre cafe which is next door to where I have resided.    The chanting and drumming of Sufi music has certainly been an integral part of my living here.  An association led by Latifa Boumazzourh  ( who features on the heading photograph on the blog page ), they are certainly a vibrant and important part of local culture.

 

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Sidi Ishaq and Meditations on Baraka

Sidi Ishaq and Meditations on Baraka

The zaouia/koubba of Sidi Ishaq is located beautifully on the Atlantic coast.  It is a short caleche ride along sandy tracks from the small town of Sidi Ishaq some 3 miles inland.  The caleche park is situated in the centre of the town just off the R301 which dramatically follows the coast as far north as Safi.

 

The final stage of the journey,  when the koubba can first be seen against the surf and the track drops down to the small sandy delta of the dried up river,  is spectacular.

 

I can find no information about Sidi Ishaq,  other than the shrine is a part of the Regraga annual pilgrimage throughout the Chiadme region.

 

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Tamesloht : a Town of Camels,  Sacrifice and Marriage

Tamesloht : a Town of Camels, Sacrifice and Marriage

A gaggle of older men in djellabas were sitting outside of the main entrance into the zaouia of Moulay Abdel Hussein, the grandfather of Moulay Brahim who’s tomb and  zaouia resides a little further south in the foothills of the Atlas mountains.  Both grandfather and grandson and their zaouias, play significant roles in a ritual which forms part of the living history of the Sidna Bilal Gnaoua brotherhood;  a history which is primarily contained in the very music and rituals it performs.

The legend and associated moussem ( festival ) is documented in a former blog post here . (more…)

Sidi Bou Ali,   Lalla Taouirt,   Sidi Hamou Ben Hmida

Sidi Bou Ali, Lalla Taouirt, Sidi Hamou Ben Hmida

Rather than portraying each zaouia as a separate blog entry I have decided to present them in groups.  Here are  zaouias I have visited over the last week or so.  They are located in the vicinity of Akermoud and Telmest,  almost the furthest that the bus travels north of Morocco.  I am quite restricted by the bus times and must take the lighting conditions as I find them.

These are traditionally near the beginning of the Regraga pilgrimage;  Sidi Bou Ali is the second zaouia to be visited in the Daour.

 

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