I Am He Whom I LoveI am He whom I love, and He whom I love is I:
We are two spirits dwelling in one body.
If thou seest me, thou seest Him,
And if thou seest Him, thou seest us both.Hussein Ibn Mansur Al Hallaj
On the bus recently from Casablanca I was fortunate to sit next to a teacher of English from Safi, a Portuguese coastal city in between Casablanca and Essaouira. Of the diverse topics we discussed, perhaps the most interesting was the subject of the current dichotomy in Moroccan society regarding the relevance of traditional superstitious beliefs in comparison with the irresistible march of science and rationality.
Chama was definitely of the belief that the old traditions have had their day, and that Morocco must continue its progress towards modernity. I think she considered my interest in Jinn possession and the Sufi co-fraternities ( Gnaoua, Hamadcha and Aissouia ) practicing different forms of healing in sacred religious/magical ways with incredulity.
Morocco was for the modern, with a linear curve heading directly towards an erudite, cosmopolitan and definitely 21st century society. The traditions were for yesterday.