Visiting derelict military camps is always interesting. Not only are the structures interesting in themselves ( though often in a rudimentary way ), the effect of ageing and intrusion confers an altogether new interpretation.
Campo de Rusia
Campo de Rusia is a set of buildings outside Belchite, Aragon, constructed during the Spanish Civil War (1938 ) , initially intended as a military outpost , but ultimately served as housing for civilian personnel. These included Republican families who were rehoused in more appropriate social housing only when they were ‘corrected’, ie embraced the doctrines of the Franco administration. Today the buildings are used as store rooms for animal and agricultural purposes.
I would like to suggest that a new photograph of a resting Republican officer taken by Gerda Toro has been discovered in a suitcase of negatives until recently lost somewhere remotely. Sadly, the truth is this is a photograph taken on the International Brigades Archaeological Project I attended in August 2015 and portrays Alan Warren as the group rested in shade at a site near Belchite, Aragon.
Alan, who offers expert Spanish Civil War tours of the battlefield sites of Catalonia, Aragon and Spain in general, joined us for several days, dressing in costume for some of it. His website is here .
The mention above to a lost suitcase is a direct reference to photographs indeed being found in a suitcase in Mexico. In December 2007, three boxes filled with rolls of film, containing 4,500 35mm negatives of the Spanish Civil War by Robert Capa, Gerda Taro, and Chim (David Seymour) which had been considered lost since 1939 arrived at the International Center of Photography. These three photographers, who lived in Paris, worked in Spain, and published internationally, laid the foundation for modern war photography. Their work has long been considered some of the most innovative and passionate coverage of the Spanish Civil War.
The invitation of Alfredo Gonzalez-Ruibal to venture down an archaeologist’s rabbit hole into a dimension of reverse-engineered history is surely appropriate for the journey he and his colleagues have made both this year and last. Belchite, a town in the northern Spanish province of Zaragoza, is one of the locations in Spain where the ghost of General Francisco Franco can still be felt on the wind, in the air and within the decaying ruins of a town he ordered to remain as a ‘living’ memorial after its total destruction in the Spanish Civil War. Alfredo has returned for 2 consecutive years to do battle with this singular ghost, assembling his own army of like minded archaeologists, anthropologists and volunteers.